Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Non-Planar Polys in Boat Hull

  1. #1

    Non-Planar Polys in Boat Hull

    Hi, I'm building an old style sailing vessel. Still new to Lightwave. Been searching these forums for ideas on how to get rid of non-planar polys. When I did looked for the info on the hull it shows that there are over 300 non-planar polys. I have tried the triple tool. I used the point to point method to build half the hull.
    I was just wondering if there is any one that can give me some info on how to not get non-planar polys with this type of model? Thanks for your time.
    I'm planning on making this model with all decks modeled out.

    I have attached a few images. Don't know if you can see it or not but the yellowish polys are the non-planar polys.
    Thanks for your time.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by EremiticWolf; 01-02-2006 at 01:06 AM.

  2. #2

    planar

    I would approuch it different...

    Personally, I would make the hull over and use much less geometry. The less poly's, the better control. Lightwave' strength is Sub-devided surfaces. You should have less then 200 poly's for the whole hull...

    If you want to make poly's planar, you can indeed tripple them but I would start over and use far less polys.
    VirtueGraphics
    www.virtuegraphics.com

  3. #3
    I'd agree with sidewing. Subpatches are the way to go. I'm currently hip deep in a similar project. Parts of the the hull (stem, toerail, caprail) are polys, but the hull shape proper is subpatched. Here's a wire of the hull and how she looks in the water.

    cheers
    Jeff
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    dynamics...so much fun ;) prospector's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    state of confusion
    Posts
    6,973
    It looks like your non planers are 2 polys together, which almost always mean there is more than 1 point where they connect.

    go into point mode and highlite some points where the non-planers are, you'll most likely get a number 2 show up instead of a 1.

    Easy way is to weld average, but a faster way, would be to find a 2 point connection, zoom into it and see what the distance is between the points, then do a merge points with the value set to that distance or a tad bigger, that may get rid of all of them in one fell swoop.
    Then do a merge poly for good measure.
    Skype...lost_in_3d_space

    Sager
    I7-4800 OC'd to 3.3 GHz
    12G 1600mhz mem
    GTX 765M , 765 cores 1.5 Gig mem
    256 gigs raided SSD drive

  5. #5

    Fixed!

    I would like to thank you three for the great advice. What I did was kind of use all three ideas in a way. I zoomed in as far as I could on a couple of points that intersected each other but the points looked like they where together, so I went through the model and deleted the unneeded polygons, then average welded the points. I also used the fix 3-5 and unify polys commands. The model went from over 880 vertices down to 113, but still had 59 non-planar polys.
    Although when I subpatched the model the non-planars had disappeared. I still have alot to learn with this program, but, I've learned alot from this experience today, the main thing I learned was the models doesn't have to have alot of polygons to start out with.

    Mr. Black, that's a beautiful looking ship there, hope mine turns out just as good.

    Again thanks you guys, I really do appreciate it.

    Attacted image: Same model, new look.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by EremiticWolf; 01-02-2006 at 05:57 PM.

  6. #6

    Poly deletion

    EremiticWolf: That is much better! You still can combine the middle 2 rows and some verticle rows...
    Tip of the day: Select 2 poly's horizontally next to each other (of those 2 rows in the middle). Go to: "Construct", "More", "Bandglue". Voila!

    Other thing: If you think (as you wrote) that certain point are on top of each other [happens when you Smoothshift with zero length] do the following: First: press "m" from merge and default to enter. Then: Go to Poly mode, press "w" (for polygone statistic) and click on the "+" sign on the left next to "2 vertices". They get now selected. Delete them!
    The statistic menu is your best friend. You can select, delete and control everything.

    I agree with you about yacht Mr. Black: Great!

    John
    VirtueGraphics
    www.virtuegraphics.com

  7. #7
    Thanks, have an anchor!

    By the way EremiticWolf, when you get to texturing I might be able to help. I've been finding some neat ways to deal with surfacing with wood (mostly from this forum). All of the wood on the Congress is proceedural, including the curved planking. It was done that way because we will need to get right up close to her (in HD), and I didn't want to make huge png maps.
    Although I don't know what period boat you're working on. It looks more modern than the Congress, and may be painted.

    Cheers
    Jeff
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 4.jpg (265.3 KB, 180 views)
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
    Posts
    188

    Lunch break diversion ... texturing the anchor

    I had to have a look at the anchor, then I had a few minutes so I got sucked into texturing. This is the result. I ran out of time, but it's not too bad ... if you want an old anchor. Probably not good for a new, shiny anchor.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Attached Files Attached Files

  9. #9
    Thanks guys for sharing, I'll take you up on the texturing idea. The problem I am having right now is making the hull have edges like the top of your hull or around the gun ports, and putting in the flooring. Everytime I try the flooring and welding it to the hull and then subpatch the hull messes up. Do any of you know a good tutorial, or should stuff like that not be weilded?

  10. #10
    dynamics...so much fun ;) prospector's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    state of confusion
    Posts
    6,973
    to get good edges at a weld point do this;

    after floor is in and welded (like you are doing), hit tab THEN highlite the floors and hit 'e',
    this will make a sharp edge where floor hits the hull then size to 99.5%,
    this will pull the poly from the wall abit and give you a (SLIGHTLY) rounded corner should you desire it.
    you may have to hit 'e' twice depending on how sharp you need
    Skype...lost_in_3d_space

    Sager
    I7-4800 OC'd to 3.3 GHz
    12G 1600mhz mem
    GTX 765M , 765 cores 1.5 Gig mem
    256 gigs raided SSD drive

  11. #11
    For the Congress I made the hull first, then shooth shifted just the bullworks in a bit to make the thicker cross section. Points along the deck/hull intersection were then copied into another layer where they were extended out to cross the deck. The outer perimiter of the deck hides in the thickness of the planking. This way the deck does not interfere with the sub patch of the hull. It was done this way because the boat will be a "proto-boat" that others will be made from. By maintaining some separation of elements I can mold them into other shapes a little easier.
    What is the vessel you're making now?
    Cheers
    Jeff

  12. #12
    Thanks again guys. :-)
    The type of ship I am making is a large frigate like the USS Constitution except a little larger. Wanting to model the upper deck and lower deck as well and the captain's quarters.

    Without getting into too much info. The time is set way into the future. A Starship Captain will own this ship as a recreation/house boat. As this Captain loves the old style ships. It's part of a book I might write one day just getting a few models built to help my imagination.

  13. #13
    Just thought I would show some progress.
    The decks took a few time to get it right.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by EremiticWolf; 01-11-2006 at 01:22 AM.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •