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Thread: 3D printing

  1. #16
    I own a 10S creality and I have no complaints with its performance. Typically I print things that are hard or impossible to find in a store. IE: a plastic part for a broken earphone on my headset, or a hook specifically sized to hold a specific object, a case for my pocket pc, marker holders that mount in a specific area, plant meshes that fit a specific pot, etc.

    In the long run, a 3d printer and a well-knowledged user of it will eventually recoup their investment.
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  2. #17
    Electron wrangler jwiede's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cagey5 View Post
    Me too. But I'd rather have direct feedback from people that use Lightwave.
    Lmgtfy. Thanks.
    I've tried most filament types at this point. I tend to do a lot of early form work with HTPLA or ABS, and that's the majority I use, but also have a wide-array of stuff like HTPLA with carbon fibre, stainless, iron, etc. for special surfaces, various "soft"/"flex" filaments, etc.

    If that's a bowden-style extruder setup, you'll probably have issues with "soft"/"flex" filaments, those work better with direct-drive extruders in general. Most of the rest don't care, but some of the filaments with compounding (carbon fibre, etc.) can be quite brittle, so you'll want to ensure there aren't sharp curves between the extruder and hotend if using those.

    If you have specific questions, I can probably answer. I've used Nylon and Taulman Glass and others as well, but find them rather finicky, esp. nylon-based ones, tend to dribble/string a lot until you have the temp and feed settings dialed in perfectly.
    John W.
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  3. #18
    Cow Orker cagey5's Avatar
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    Thanks for that. I'll probably be back with questions!
    I'll probably place my order tomorrow then count the days until it arrives. How hard-wearing is the ABS?
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  4. #19
    Eat your peas. Greenlaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Roye View Post
    I own a 10S creality and I have no complaints with its performance.
    Just glanced at the specs: 500mm...over 19-inches??? Is that correct? If so, that's amazing.

    Is the 10S able to maintain correct proportions at that size?

  5. #20

    seems cool,

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  6. #21
    Eat your peas. Greenlaw's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting that Erikals! The video answered some of my questions about print quality at that size.

    I'm not surprised that the print had the defects pointed out in the video but, man, that's still very cool to be able print at that scale. And it's a lot cheaper than the Mini+ I've been thinking about.

    Guess I need to decide what I really want to use the new printer for. Quality and level of detail is going to be a bigger selling point for me but I know I'm not going to find a replacement for the Form in that department. If I can find something close-ish in quality that's cheaper to use, I'll be happy. Hmm...I'm going to need to do much better research on what's available these days.

    In any case, I was informed yesterday that I'm not getting another printer until I clean out the garage. Sigh! I better get to it before L.A.'s sweltering summer arrives.

  7. #22
    Vacant, pretty vacant pinkmouse's Avatar
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    Right. here's my solution:

    Spend $150 on an Ender 3. Print quality is almost identical to the CR 10, and not far off the mini+, so you can assess if you want to go down the FDM route at all. If you decide it is, then get a CR10, and then mod the Ender with smaller nozzle and whatever else you can be bothered with get quality up for smaller models, and have the CR10 for epic constructions.

    If you get the ender and find you do hate FDM, then you've only lost 10% of the price of the mini+. Then save up a bit more and get the Prusa SL1

    But first... "Tidy that bl***y garage!" "D
    Al
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  8. #23

    i've yet to assemble my $200 Anet A6,
    it has a resolution of 75 micron, alright.
    for higher resolution, i'll just use Shapeways.

    if i were to go for a large scale 3D printer now, it probably be
    TEVO Tornado - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxmk8PXgwdM
    • 300 x 300 x 400
    • 40 micron resolution
    • slightly cheaper than the Creality CR-10S

    more large scale printers >
    https://all3dp.com/1/best-large-3d-p...le-3d-printers
    Last edited by erikals; 04-29-2019 at 12:21 PM.
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  9. #24
    Vacant, pretty vacant pinkmouse's Avatar
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    Put this on in the background next time you're near the computer:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EdZeodW5qo

    Tom's a proper engineer, not just an internet "celebrity"
    Last edited by pinkmouse; 04-29-2019 at 12:56 PM.
    Al
    "I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while." Charles Fort

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  10. #25
    Eat your peas. Greenlaw's Avatar
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    BTW, even though FormLabs no longer supports the Form 1+ or sells consumables for the printer, there's still some life left for my old Form 1+.

    One of the more expensive consumables is the resin tray, which needs to be replaced every so often because the optically clear silicon coating at the bottom wears out. At almost $70 for a new tray, it was just a bit much for me. Then a clever user figured out how to manufacture a replacement tray made of optically clear glass with user-replaceable silicon coating. The Z-Vat tray is even coated with UV blocking tint on the sides and has a re-sealable cover so you can store and swap trays to use different resins. I got one of these trays last year but haven't used it yet (I stocked up on official trays before FormLabs sold out of them, and I still have a couple left.) I'm thinking of trying out the Z-Vat soon...will post how that goes.

    For resin, the last time I purchased from FormLabs it came in cartridges because that's what the newer printers use. It's a little weird to have to pour from cartridges instead of a proper bottle. And the resin is still pretty expensive. I found third party sources for compatible resins though which are a bit cheaper. Will give that a try and let you now how it goes.

    Edit: Wait, now I'm not sure about the re-sealable cover for Z-Vat 1. I might be thinking of the official Form 1+ tray for that feature. Oh, well...Saran Wrap should work fine if I keep it stored in the dark.

  11. #26
    I own a CR-10, Ender 2, and setup an Ender 3 for a friend. I would also recommend an Ender 3 for your "starter" printer.

    I really enjoy printing and making things for my camera gear or other projects. This is a hobby/craft/science for those willing to experiment, and don't mind making mistakes and retrying things until they work.

    Currently I'm fulfilling a 30 year dream and printing a 100" long studio scale Enterprise Refit from Star Trek:The Motion Picture. After printing, I'll hand finish and clean it up until there's no trace of layers and pull molds for Epoxy/glass shells of all the major elements.

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    As example, the engine nacelles are printed in 4 sections, with a total print time of 212 hours/nacelle. The different colors are the batch variations with the filament I'm using, and I switched to the "pla +" version which was yet another color change. Won't matter after the sanding, primer, auto-body putty phases.

    I used Lightwave for all the part design, and all original model elements are based off the best plans available and careful photogrammetry with an eye to working with printer limitations.

  12. #27

  13. #28

    Greenlaw, a $500 alternative,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gar2jcRlGTo

    Imageshoppe... Awesome!   hey, what about a Youtube video also?  
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  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by erikals View Post
    Greenlaw, a $500 alternative,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gar2jcRlGTo

    Imageshoppe... Awesome!   hey, what about a Youtube video also?  
    Thanks all... you can see that these printers (if properly adjusted of course) have good dimensional accuracy... my 46.5" diameter saucer printed in 16 wedges forms a perfect circle, and that's with the sections printed on edge, and on two different printers (the outer ring and the inner one)!

    http://files.datausa.com/imageshoppe...L_PRINTING.mp4

    In general, I wouldn't worry too much about "pimping" these printers with crazy add-ons and third party this and that... if properly adjusted and tuned, they work fine as designed. My original CR-10 with one lead screw has no layer or wobble issues to the full 15" of printing height. There's a few useful parts you can print once you get the printer, fan ducts and the like, but hey, they do sort of work as advertised.

    And yes, there will be a pretty detailed build video set on the whole process; the printing, the finishing, silicon molding and the casting along with the aluminum armature creation...

    On the link... I'm getting the Anycubic Photon very soon (actually the brand new Photon s) for printing some of the fine detail sections and the interior spaces... really looking forward to working with all that increased detail...

  15. #30
    Eat your peas. Greenlaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikals View Post
    Greenlaw, a $500 alternative,
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gar2jcRlGTo
    Cool! Thanks for the link. It's amazing how affordable SLA is becoming.

    I think my original Form 1 cost almost $2300 during the Kickstarter campaign way back in 2012 or so. At the time, that price was considered 'groundbreaking' for the technology. What a difference 7 years makes!

    All this talk has got me excited about 3D printing with the Form 1+ again. I just ordered some third-party resin from ApplyLabWorks. Definitely cheaper ($70/liter) and they don't even charge for shipping.

    I got the tan resin. Will post how it works out for me in a few days.

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