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unstable
08-18-2015, 05:24 PM
Hi folks, some of you helped me get to this point a week or so ago. I added the DOF and some reflection blur which I think makes it look a little more real. I then decided I'd like to distress it by adding chipped paint, worn edges and maybe some gunk running down the sides lengthwise. I thought the way to do this would be to create a UV map, bump map and so forth, but after disastrous attempts I gave up and just used the grit node and I don't think I did that very well. I've attached my shots, the model and scene. I originally packaged the scene and zipped it for upload, but like everything else in this 3d world, the web site refused to upload the 7 mb zip. Use the model for whatever you like but if you could let me know if I've done something that I shouldn't have in modeling it that prevents creating normal maps etc, I'd like to know. Any help in teaching me how to distress this so I can apply what I learn to other objects would be greatly appreciated. I've run into similar problems when I want to make a wall look worn and weather beaten. Maybe I'm just a terrible artist. :hey: LOL I don't get to work with 3d everyday so it may take me some time to apply what you provide me. Thanks

Snosrap
08-18-2015, 08:50 PM
Well done model! Congrats. My only criticism would be that it's pretty heavy on the polygons. :)

JoePoe
08-18-2015, 09:05 PM
...it's pretty heavy on the polygons. :)

Agree!! 96 polys around cylinder? AND SubD? Way too much around.... but maybe not enough along the length.

Also. The UV is a kinda wonky. How'd u make it?
(no images attached to see UV in action...)

unstable
08-18-2015, 09:40 PM
I gave up on the uv, so no images. I created it using Atlas in LW. I guess I'm just really lost on what to do. The reason I made so many pokies is so I was able to make the non moving end connect smoothly with the tube. I started out with an 8 sided tube and connector but I wasn't able to make the taper cornered transition from the round connector to the end of the tube.

djwaterman
08-18-2015, 09:48 PM
Well done. The way you modeled it you left it possible to weld those side blocks to the main shaft with a few more subdivisions, I like that sort of thinking.

jwiede
08-18-2015, 09:49 PM
Agree!! 96 polys around cylinder? AND SubD? Way too much around.... but maybe not enough along the length.

96 does seem like a lot. OTOH, with all those "bolt heads" (or whatever those small extrusions are) around the outer end of the main cylinder at one end, I can see how it could wind up being so many in order to support better placing/aligning them, as well.

jwiede
08-18-2015, 09:52 PM
I gave up on the uv, so no images. I created it using Atlas in LW. I guess I'm just really lost on what to do. The reason I made so many pokies is so I was able to make the non moving end connect smoothly with the tube. I started out with an 8 sided tube and connector but I wasn't able to make the taper cornered transition from the round connector to the end of the tube.

Ah, yeah, makes sense, though not quite the same reason as what I was thinking. In any case, it's not like it is ridiculously dense or anything. It's rather nicely done, IMO.

unstable
08-18-2015, 09:56 PM
Thanks, I appreciate the comments. I felt it was a pretty higph poly count too, but didn't know how to get the same shape block that connected the non moving end ring to the main tube. Any suggestions on how to make this look worn instead of looking so new?

MonroePoteet
08-18-2015, 10:25 PM
Nice model. I didn't look at the mesh or the UV map, so no comment there. Looks good.

Here's a very worn, weathered version. I took off all the nodes except the Ambient Occlusion II, as described in William Vaughan's tutorial, here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCaLyUStvy8

and then selected all the surfaces (except wood) and messed with the color and bump layers as a whole, adding in multiple layers. Once I was satisfied with the weathering on the main tube, etc., I started backing off weathering from the chrome, the bushings, and the heads of the bolts, which I figured may have been worked recently. I used the Chrome preset (F8 in the Surface Editor panel, the Metals pulldown) for the chrome piston shaft.

On the wood, I used a plank texture I got off the web and cranked the bump way up.

At least a start, maybe.

mTp

MonroePoteet
08-18-2015, 10:34 PM
Forgot to include the old planks image in the prior ZIP file. This one should be complete.

mTP

MonroePoteet
08-18-2015, 10:53 PM
Another couple of realism changes I made to the scene: I changed the Light to a Spotlight, used Shadow Maps for shadows, cranked up the Shadow Map size to 2048 and increased the shadow fuzziness to 3.0. Added a gradient backdrop with dark greyish colors to accent the grunginess and give the materials (especially the chrome and bushings) something to reflect. Turned on Radiosity. I think that's it.

As I said, maybe a start.

mTp

unstable
08-19-2015, 07:22 AM
thanks Monroe, I'll play around with this and see where I can take it. I never thought of altering the lighting and backdrop to help make the appearance more grungy. And I really know nothing at all about shadow maps, but no time like the present to learn. Thanks again.

Snosrap
08-19-2015, 08:33 AM
And I really know nothing at all about shadow maps, but no time like the present to learn. The only thing you need to know is to avoid them. :) Shadow maps harken back to the day when computers were using 286's and 68000's and were a cheap way to get soft shadows. They consume lots of ram and have contact issues. VPR doesn't honor them as they can be considered more of a post effect. Download DP Lights from Denis Pontonnier for a nice soft shadow spotlight as well as other lights.

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DrStrik9
08-19-2015, 12:49 PM
This is the problem with never phasing out old "features." It took me a LONG time of trying all the old stuff, before I got even a small "clue" on what to avoid, and what to use -- and I'm still discovering these things.

JoePoe
08-19-2015, 06:23 PM
I felt it was a pretty higph poly count too, but didn't know how to get the same shape block that connected the non moving end ring to the main tube.

Sure you do! :)
It's exactly what you did, just with fewer polys.
I seemed to get away unscathed with 24 sides.

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But if you don't mind a higher count by all means don't let me stop you. Just thought it would be easier to wrangle together a better UV or two.
Which, btw, is the method I'd use to get the textures poppin"!!