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Bryka
01-15-2014, 08:08 PM
Hi there. I am working on a college project in lightwave 11.5
I have modelled part of a room and I am trying to render it to look as realistic as I can. However the renders come out looking flat and cartoony.
I have attached a link to the final render and another with the setting I have.
I am also using a background, image world to light my scene.
Could someone give me some clues on how I can up the realism and get rid of the toy story look.
not everything is textured yet…WIP

Cheers
http://i43.tinypic.com/1415fzn.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/30le89t.jpg


what I would like to get close to is something like this..
http://www.3dtotal.com/index_gallery_detailed2.php?id=5682&cat=scenes

erikals
01-15-2014, 10:38 PM
looks like you are on a good path, settings look good

119318

it's looking washed out because the GI settings are not high enough,
pump of the settings from 400 to 4000 and 200 to 2000.
note, this will increase render time, a lot. (use limited region)
also pump up indirect bounces slightly, maybe to 5.
again, this will increase render time, a lot.

also add tone mapping and adjustments later on in post.

you might want to check the tricks in this thread >
http://forums.newtek.com/showthread.php?139419-Lightwave-render-The-Hague-Apartment

having said this, LightWave is not the best for interior renders, Octane and Kray is better.
but i've seen amazing interior renders in LightWave too, so, it is possible.
https://www.lightwave3d.com/community/gallery/category/architecture/

OFF
01-15-2014, 11:00 PM
If you don't planning animation you can choice noninterpolated GI settings with x2(3-4) bounces and 64-128 RPE. In this way you don't need to add AO shaders on surfaces.

alexos
01-16-2014, 01:52 AM
...But apart from what the other chaps are saying, there is also a slight modeling/texturing problem: the bed's structure and the supporting beam have impossibly sharp corners while the mattress is a bit on the cylindrical side; also, the floor's texture is way too large (you could stick a finger in the space between those planks, something you probably wouldn't want in your home!) and it looks low-res; it's the kind of detail that can make the difference between a realistic image and one that screams "CG".

Oh and there's no contact shadow, so you might want to add a "shadow-only" light somewhere above the bed, just to get rid of the floating effect, or perhaps an occlusion node for the floor.

ADP.

JonW
01-16-2014, 03:28 AM
Have you reduced the Diffuse channel. White walls 80%, timber floor 50-60%, very dark coloured furniture 40%.

The textures you should be fairly flat & dull to start with. Photographed on a lightly cloudy day. The image itself should not have it's own highlights.

Attached: Use this one & use the image itself changing curves for a Bump map & another version for Spec map. Also change to PNG & change Bump maps etc grey scale PNG.

Bryka
01-16-2014, 08:57 AM
Thanks guys. I will try all these and see how it goes.

prometheus
01-16-2014, 05:29 PM
firstly noted, ambient light at 13.5% value? kill..kill.
and image probe for interior? not sure about that one.
also, maybe add area lights and scale them to match the windows, and place them sligthly behind the windows.
incidence angle gradients on diffuse on the walls, and some general modeling needs improving on as mentioned above.
and be careful with the spherical light which in this case only seem to serve as a sort of occlusion light.
You also donīt have ambient occlusion checked in the global illumination panel, I think that should be on.
Gradients too.

simply area lights to be the window lights, and use ambient occlusion filter from dpont might do fine too.
please do check cagemans tutes on dpfilter and occlusion...
http://www.youtube.com/user/TemalCageman/videos

And this one is a goodie too. Sahin Michael derun..covers some briefing on lighting in lighwave..He does very nice interior renders as you can see on the gallery pages, with no external renders..only lightwave.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFLPJSFeQ58

the srgb colorspace migh cause some flatness to the look aswell, depending on how you light it, and might need color correction to some degree, but Iīm not expert on that one.

Tobian
01-16-2014, 06:25 PM
Prometheus - no to 'use gradients' - it's deprecated (see LW11 manual addenum).

Ok some weird settings there.

Ok lower your shading and light samples to nominal levels. For most scenarios I'd say 2-4 will yeild good results..

Likewise increase your AA samples by a lot. If you have a lot of blurry reflections in the scene, I'd say 8/64 samples, doubling those if it gets problematic. AS set to 0.004-0.008 and a small oversample value, maybe 0.1

For your key light, I recommend using the Dome light, rotate it into position, and set it's angle to 0.26 - which will make it the angular size of the sun, and make it a little yellow. You will want to make it quite bright(300+), and increase the exposure of the background too, so that it provides much more environmental light from outside (this is to emulate the exposure inside a room, as interiors are dark, so cameras increase their exposure to compensate, but LW has no such function)

Radiosity, again odd, change the settings to (approx) 1024 rpe 128-256 2rpe, angular tolerance 10, min pixel spacing 0.5 - max about 40.

As for the rest, it's about using lots of softly reflecting surfaces, if needed, and most importantly of all, tonemapping. LW doesn't have any native tone-mapping support, so you'll need to look at an external solution.

As a basic explanation, I like to show this neat video, which explains what often goes wrong with digital curves http://vimeo.com/32901334 - note that while LW has sRGB colourspace, all it does it apply an sRGB gamma, it doesn't handle any filmic curves, and solve any of the clamping issues you get when pixels go above 1.. which is one of the main reasons rendering white rooms gets problematic! :)

prometheus
01-16-2014, 06:58 PM
Prometheus - no to 'use gradients' - it's deprecated (see LW11 manual addenum).

Ok some weird settings there.

Ok lower your shading and light samples to nominal levels. For most scenarios I'd say 2-4 will yeild good results..

Likewise increase your AA samples by a lot. If you have a lot of blurry reflections in the scene, I'd say 8/64 samples, doubling those if it gets problematic. AS set to 0.004-0.008 and a small oversample value, maybe 0.1

For your key light, I recommend using the Dome light, rotate it into position, and set it's angle to 0.26 - which will make it the angular size of the sun, and make it a little yellow. You will want to make it quite bright(300+), and increase the exposure of the background too, so that it provides much more environmental light from outside (this is to emulate the exposure inside a room, as interiors are dark, so cameras increase their exposure to compensate, but LW has no such function)

Radiosity, again odd, change the settings to (approx) 1024 rpe 128-256 2rpe, angular tolerance 10, min pixel spacing 0.5 - max about 40.

As for the rest, it's about using lots of softly reflecting surfaces, if needed, and most importantly of all, tonemapping. LW doesn't have any native tone-mapping support, so you'll need to look at an external solution.

As a basic explanation, I like to show this neat video, which explains what often goes wrong with digital curves http://vimeo.com/32901334 - note that while LW has sRGB colourspace, all it does it apply an sRGB gamma, it doesn't handle any filmic curves, and solve any of the clamping issues you get when pixels go above 1.. which is one of the main reasons rendering white rooms gets problematic! :)

Thanks for the heads up Tobian, I will check that.
the other stuff, why not use sunsky-Sk_sun instead of a dome light? no need to correct color, unless you of course want the white color and more manual tweak of it instead.
Then I wonder about what you say about the sun angle 0.26, is that really correct for the sun?...I though it should be exactly the same as the sk_sun is set up for ..which is 0.52.
Good statements for the rest anyway.

Tobian
01-16-2014, 08:03 PM
It's a radius vs diameter thing is all. The sun has an angular size of about .52 degrees, with LW's dome light, you set it as .26 as that's the radius as opposed to the diameter. Otherwise sure, use the Dp sun. You could also try and use the portal light that comes with it too, as it should help to light up the interior. Not sure if it's helpful if you use an HDR instead of the sk environment? You'll also still need to look into the exposure issue, for light penetration.

Bryka
01-16-2014, 09:05 PM
Gotcha Thanks. A lot of the settings are weird because I don't know what I am doing to be honest. Plugging in number randomly to see what happens. I appreciate you help and will see how it all goes.

JonW
01-16-2014, 09:26 PM
Attached is an internal scene with all the solid surfaces in grey. Have a look at the glass's texture in the kitchen window & at the very edge of the balcony, there is the same texture here as well. This scene is all done in Lightwave except for some minor curve adjustments which would be pretty much needed for any image.

JonW
01-16-2014, 09:37 PM
The only time I use Ambient light is when I have forgotten to turn it off!

I quite often do a Sun at 10,000 metres & 10m in size attached to a Null so I can simply swing around the Sun with the Null. Then a second Sun at very roughly 10% very slightly blue & about 1000 - 3000 metres in size! For outside renders.

Also change the Shadow colour for all your lights to slightly off black, 015 015 019, this helps a lot.

spherical
01-16-2014, 09:44 PM
Attached is an internal scene with all the solid surfaces in grey. Have a look at the glass's texture in the kitchen & lounge room windows. This scene is all done in Lightwave except for some minor curve adjustments which would be pretty much needed for any image.

OK, please elucidate on "fish tank" and "on different layers". What is the former? Why is the latter important?

JonW
01-16-2014, 10:08 PM
I have a few different layers so the model is easier to work on.

But at some point I make up the basic room so that walls, ceiling were connected. So each common point was Welded together. A common Point!

If edges of polys line up perfectly. Then you will not get the splotches in the corner of the room. If polys are mathematically not perfect, ie overlapping by 0.0001 mm, points not common, even by the slightest imperfection they are not connected, you will have far more issues with splotching!

So I might have the ceiling on a different layer but the polys is the corner of the room line up perfectly with the top of the walls. A common Point at some stage.

Furniture in a room doesn't seem to have the same problems. It always seems to be the long straight runs like a wall & a ceiling or floor etc.

erikals
01-16-2014, 10:33 PM
If edges of polys line up perfectly. Then you will not get the splotches in the corner of the room. If polys are mathematically not perfect, ie overlapping by 0.0001 mm, points not common, even by the slightest imperfection they are not connected, you will have far more issues with splotching!

Smart!... http://erikalstad.com/backup/misc.php_files/smile.gif never thought of that...

JonW
01-16-2014, 10:59 PM
If you do a fly through Weld all the common points at some stage. It's even more critical to stop splotches. Which when moving from frame to frame are vastly more noticeable.

spherical
01-17-2014, 03:05 AM
Ah, splotches and corner bleed. Now it makes sense, but wasn't apparent in the image label that this is what was significant. Yes, I work in multiple layers but when committing to final, and there is no real reason to keep the layer capability, merge whatever can be merged into a render version. I keep the layered version, just in case, but the one that gets sent to Layout has as much sealed as possible.

Tobian
01-17-2014, 10:30 AM
All my corners are welded, I still get splotchies.. it helps, but it doesn't stop the problem...

prometheus
01-17-2014, 11:49 AM
Attached is an internal scene with all the solid surfaces in grey. Have a look at the glass's texture in the kitchen window & at the very edge of the balcony, there is the same texture here as well. This scene is all done in Lightwave except for some minor curve adjustments which would be pretty much needed for any image.

Thanks for the scenefile and objects JonW, did you make it all?

fired up vpr, noticed that it will choke and is extremly slow though, have to check which elements are that is slowing it down.

Edited...might have been me having fine instead of draft for vpr, and the volumetric light.

Michael

JonW
01-17-2014, 01:55 PM
It is slow for the radiosity but this is to get rid of the last of the noise, from memory, above the kitchen window & on a bit of the window frame. The 16/64 is part of the same issue. So cut back to 12/32 or 8/32 & 50% Multiply for radiosity. But do not cut the 16/ 12/ 8/ back to a very low number or with /32 /64 takes longer to render. It is often false economy doing something like 2/48. You will probably have just as quicker render or if not quicker with 8/32 & usually 0.03 threshold is low enough & with a lower noise render. One could bake the kitchen window plus a bit extra around it & the much brighter area above the window, even with another camera then bake the whole image with lower settings with the main camera. (You realise these setting, mainly mentioned this for the original post)

Because this was for a fly through I would have done 2 Motion Blur passes & cut in half the settings, so 16/64 > 8/32 & 0.03 > 0.06 (double is half!) which are effectively twice as much with two MB passes.

This was actually for a fly through with baked Radiosity. Once baked the frames were fairly quick to render. Even after baking the first couple of frames it was dramatically quicker baking the remaining frames. It was just this first frame of radiosity that was slow to get rid of the last noise around the window. But once there I had a scene that did not need extra fiddling around with after.

Everything in the scene I made & you are welcome to use the parts. They are copies as best as I could do of actual products with a low poly count in general but without been too low.

The glass in the window for the lighting was actually from someone else on the forum, so I can't take credit for that. It is a great trick for lighting up internal scenes & not having to fiddle around with fill lights.

Attached: a toaster I knocked up in LW & LWCad if anyone want to make toast! I usually need current products for a scene & a library on a CD usually has 99% rubbish so it is better just to knock up the objects one needs!

Note for the original poster: Make sure all your file names do not have gaps which otherwise will cause problems with network rendering when you get around to it!

Bryka
01-17-2014, 04:43 PM
So when I render my image the edges of the window frames are sharp and crisp. I would like to try get that hazy blown out look like in these examples.
Any hints on how to do that. Will any of the above mentioned hints help?
Thanks again.
http://i43.tinypic.com/20k6c0i.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/23h0k0p.jpg

spherical
01-17-2014, 04:53 PM
Part of those are softening by Depth of Field but the darkening around the edges is controlled bu increasing Irradiance Falloff in the Real Lens Camera.

prometheus
01-17-2014, 05:42 PM
Part of those are softening by Depth of Field but the darkening around the edges is controlled bu increasing Irradiance Falloff in the Perspective Camera.

Uhmm..and whereīs settings for irradicance fallof in the perspective camera?
You mean real lens camera..right.

erikals
01-17-2014, 05:55 PM
ain't there... http://erikalstad.com/backup/misc.php_files/smile.gif

i'm sure he meant the real lens camera... :]


Irradiance falloff simulates the darkening towards the boundary of the image, much like a real camera. What is happening on a technical level is the brightness of a pixel is reduced as a function of the angle between the ray and the film plane.

The brightness is proportional to the cosine of the angle between the film plane normal and the ray direction, taken to some power given by the falloff value. So a falloff of 0 effectively disables it as the brightness will always be 1. Higher falloff values make the brightness drop off sharper and faster.

also see >
http://dpont.pagesperso-orange.fr/plugins/nodes/DP_Filter.html


Vignetting Node

-A simple node for simulating vignetting, close to Real Camera "Irradiance falloff",
but added as a postprocess effect.

-The "Aspect Ratio" of the vignetting effect can be modified.

-"Saturate" option add contrast to the vignetted part of the image.


Irradiance falloff or Vignetting seems like a simple thing to add in post?
or won't the effect be the same?

prometheus
01-17-2014, 06:20 PM
image filter bloom also helps, might just need some correction in the values, lower threshold, change strength and size, in this image ..maybe to much.
Also..see if you can spot the white point leak spot artifact in the roof, probably caused by bad geometry when using multishift or thickener in a not so good way.
Oh...I so wish for more support in VPR for the image filters, like bloom, It was supported in in old core I think ,corona and a fix for lensflares-glow behind objects which isnīt working, only in native renderer.

119373

Michael

JonW
01-17-2014, 06:34 PM
So when I render my image the edges of the window frames are sharp and crisp. I would like to try get that hazy blown out look like in these examples.
Any hints on how to do that. Will any of the above mentioned hints help?
Thanks again.
http://i43.tinypic.com/20k6c0i.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/23h0k0p.jpg

Depth of field just do that in LW, you have enough passes.

The soft light do in Post.

Duplicate Layer, change Layer to Soft Light & Opacity to 30 - 50%,
Gaussian Blur layer, Radius 30 pixels (anything 10 - 100 pixels depending on the effect you want),
adjust curves for layer for Input 128 make Output 200 or want every you want,
Hue/Saturation reduce Saturation by 50%, again, you may prefer not to do this or do it more.
You could do this all in one Curve adjustment but I just broke it up so you can see what is going on.

You may want to do the another Duplicate Layer or 3 starting with a tighter or larger Radius of pixels & lowering the contrast of the layer & maybe making the layer brighter as well, or maybe darker depending on the precise look you want to achieve. But this is the principle of these images.


Also.....

If you look at my scene: Windows > Backdrop Options > Volumetrics, or (Control F6, to save time!) I have set a slight Fog for the scene, this can be increased a bit but don't over do it or it will look fake. I just have a hint of fog so it is not really obvious in the scene.

For additional effect do this in post as I described above.


Another thing is render a larger image & in Photoshop reduce the image size by 25 - 30% then increase image size back to it's original. You are throwing away a quarter to a third of your pixels but you are softening the image to take the edges off as well, to look more photographic.

JonW
01-17-2014, 06:57 PM
Irradiance falloff or Vignetting seems like a simple thing to add in post?
or won't the effect be the same?

All these things are faults in the camera lens, not faults in the scene. Most of the soft effect done years ago, you could buy a lens where you could purposely move one on the elements to get the same effect. But it is an effect in the camera, not in the scene.

http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/legacy_RZ80.asp
Down the page: 180mm soft f/4 Variable Soft Focus.

prometheus
01-17-2014, 07:14 PM
Thought I should bump a little on archive3d and the free furniture models they have there,though most might be 3ds and obj format, so loading should be done first in modeler, and correcting sizes..otherwise youīd end up with a bed with a size of a couple of kilometers:) ...so sizing has to be done manually and with approximation unless knowing the true scale.

when you browse through the categories, you mostly have small thumbs and have to select next pages...
it might work better to simply put this search string in google images(site:http://archive3d.net bed)
..and if you donīt want beds, change it to sofa or something else...


image...sk_sunsky,sk_sun, one distant light parented to the sk_sun for volumetric light, one area light in the opening of the windows, radiosity/volumetric radiosity and a bloom filter,sRGB colorspace, bed from archive3d.
119376

JonW
01-17-2014, 08:24 PM
Also..see if you can spot the white point leak spot artifact in the roof, probably caused by bad geometry when using multishift or thickener in a not so good way.l

Isn't that a 1 point poly?

spherical
01-17-2014, 08:36 PM
Uhmm..and whereīs settings for irradicance fallof in the perspective camera?
You mean real lens camera..right.

Yep. Good catch. Didn't want to take the time away from a job by checking. So many cameras, so little time... Edited, so no one coming along will get confused.

prometheus
01-17-2014, 08:47 PM
Isn't that a 1 point poly?

Nope itīs not, I was just originally fiddling with different ways to stencil,bridging window holes,and then thicken or multishift for thickness, and using bridge for cutting holes and something like that, so
I really didnīt go with a proper workflow, better to make the room thicken first, then better of to drill with booleans...to avoid selection problems when trying to select windows and bridge them with a cut hole...so
it went screwed up when I tried first thicken, then finally for this used multishift.
The splot point is 5 points sharing the same position, I forgot to merge them strangely...will check again if the render comes out ok..but the geometry isnīt ok at all according to the below statements.

so the walls arenīt quite planar:) (I think) doesnīt matter though...I was originally just messing with different techiques to create window sections on the walls, aligning them perfectly with axis translate using line tool as construction lines etc..then I saw the thread and throwed the boring cube room in to a scene and started to mess with lighting the room etc..added,bloom,volumetrics and now particle sprite dust.
The bed from archive3d is good for fast previews, but I should build my own or get a finished lightwave model, since it is too dense in geometry for the bed blanket, and I should be having a subpatch blanket for the bed instead and a lot of other things...I should have gone to bed when messing it up that way, and I should really go to bed now...5 a clock in the morning, I will miss the sunlight when going to bed now.

119377 119378

erikals
01-17-2014, 09:30 PM
...I should have gone to bed when messing it up that way, and I should really go to bed now...5 a clock in the morning, I will miss the sunlight when going to bed now.

Sunlight? don't know about Sweden, but it's been grey over here for months... http://erikalstad.com/backup/misc.php_files/smile.gif

prometheus
01-17-2014, 09:45 PM
Sunlight? don't know about Sweden, but it's been grey over here for months... http://erikalstad.com/backup/misc.php_files/smile.gif

O yeah...I forgot about that:) ..it was all just remaining sparkles in my brain cells of what I once knew as to be so called sunlight, itīs been pretty grey here too...a few streams of light perhaps, thatīs why it is
so beautiful, when and if you see them:)
and nope,merging the points didnīt remove the spot, Iīmaking a new room soon, perhaps more traditional with bevel and extrude walls instead, could have been due to thicken of a box, or maybe cause of using windows in a second layer, but goodnight for today.

Michael

erikals
01-17-2014, 09:56 PM
okay, good night.

coffee for me... :caffeine:http://erikalstad.com/backup/misc.php_files/smile.gif

can't wait for Summer...!

spherical
01-17-2014, 10:07 PM
Heh, Summer.... we're in Central California on the Pacific Coast, where it should be some semblance of Winter. At least windy, raining and cold, if not the occasional welcomed snowfall, at our altitude on this mountain, that we can toss the cats out in and watch them levitate. However, it's 79F! for days now. Huh? This is NOT January!

prometheus
01-17-2014, 10:43 PM
Heh, Summer.... we're in Central California on the Pacific Coast, where it should be some semblance of Winter. At least windy, raining and cold, if not the occasional welcomed snowfall, at our altitude on this mountain, that we can toss the cats out in and watch them levitate. However, it's 79F! for days now. Huh? This is NOT January!


Heh, Summer.... we're in Central California on the Pacific Coast, where it should be some semblance of Winter. At least windy, raining and cold, if not the occasional welcomed snowfall, at our altitude on this mountain, that we can toss the cats out in and watch them levitate. However, it's 79F! for days now. Huh? This is NOT January!

calironia, thatīs sunny land.

here in stockholm itīs just -4 celsius, or 24,8 farenheit ..I think.
it should be something along - 12 -16 celsius (3.199999999999999 farenheit) usually fr januari.
but itīs been upside down, we just got it a littly chilly a week ago, in fact one of the mildest winters since the 70īs I think, new years eve we had no snow, and + 5 or 7 degree celsius (44.6F)
that is unusal, last winter it was loads of snow already in october creating panic and stopping all traffic everywhere..that has been the case the last 3 years I think, before that it was quite mild without snow.

Stockholm is a almost in the center of sweden more south perhaps so we donīt get any extreme weather though, no massive storms or tornados, no extreme heat, or extreme cold.
feels quite dark and chilly due to humidity and often cloudy days though, the earth axis is pitched that that way at winter so it has not many sunny days on the winter...I wonder how it
would be to live in those equatorial countries, probably to hot everyday and dry land, south america and africa? stockholm and the longitude lines crosses hudson bay in the middle I think.

Damn...I canīt hit the sack, not sure if it is the light from the computer image keeping me up, or the actual computer activites or magnetic fields keeping me up...or the fact
thatīs the only way I see nice light during winter.
did a fast remake of the room, no more spot artifact...the spotīs in the sunlight should be there..since it is dust, in case if you wonder:)

119387 And ..morning has broken..like the first:) 119388

spherical
01-17-2014, 11:28 PM
calironia, thatīs sunny land.

Big difference, usually, between Southern California (which is what everyone thinks of) and Central/Northern. Yes, we're not as close to the Arctic Circle, so it is sunnier for more of the time. Still, we get weather; sometimes severe weather. 85+ MPH (136.7942+ KPH) winds with driving rain on this mountain on the coast. Finally bit the bullet and got a generator that can power the studio for a couple of weeks while they repair the power lines downed from falling trees. Not all sunshine, roses, rainbows and unicorns.

Tobian
01-18-2014, 07:25 AM
Very nice experiments Prometheus. The little gaps often happen in perfectly good geometry, it's caused by something brighter than your polygon join being behind it, and LW being not very good with joins between polygons sometimes. I find making everything double-walled and double sided can help, but not always. I suspect triangulation of the mesh also helps, because VPR doesn't suffer, as it triangulates the mesh (so it suffers less from slightly non-planar ngons than f9 does). Hopefully Mark will put that code in the F9 renderer at some point :)

prometheus
01-18-2014, 12:43 PM
hereīs a step description of some photoshop processing.

The image I posted before was at 1280x960 resolution and it took 7min 15sec with bloom, volumetric radiosity,volumetric AA, medium quality for the volumetric light..many other settings is
described in the image attached here.

If I render without bloom, it only takes 3minutes and 5 seconds with the same settings for rest, it could render faster too with bloom, If I were to lower bloom size perhaps.
So the image attached was rendered without bloom, and I processed it with distort/diffuse glow filter instead, then corrected levels.
Check image for steps and description...the images are reduced to half of the 1280x960 resolution. for easier viewing here.

would like to try partigons or maybe pixie dust for particle dust, I think I would like some particles highlight more somehow, have to redo windows and walls for more interesting room, throw in some additional bedroom stuff
I think:) If Im up to it I might use dynamics to create a subpatch bed blanket instead of the heavy triangulated mesh from the obj file.
Windows can be altered to be not so bright or blown out..If I want that I think.
I would also need higher AA... Itīs not satisfactory for the bed structure as it is now.

Edited...theres also vertex normal map in there screwing up the bed look, so that might have to go too..and better off to replace it with lightwave subpatch, the vertex normal map is
also a render clogger, so I am suprised that it still renders quite fast with all the volumetrics,radiosity etc.

119405

Michael

egearbox
02-13-2015, 04:43 PM
Work on your textures a little bit. The planks and walls could benefit from some image map tweaking. Some of my favorite sites (free):

http://www.cgtextures.com/

http://www.textureking.com/

50% of your problems, I think, can be solved with that and a little tweaking of the lights.