PDA

View Full Version : Transparrancy on Leafs



HolyMonkey-
03-22-2012, 02:51 PM
I have a bunch of trees that has a bunch of alpha planes on them and alpha and diffuse texture maps. How do you assemble this in LW?

I have a past in Maya and 3Dsmax and all you needed to do was add the diffuse through color slot as you also do in LW, and the leaf alpha texture through the transparrancy slot as an image map but I get strange results, like parts of the texture shows, and other parts dont.

I will post some information tomorow, as I do not have the files available here right now. It's kind of urgent so im posting this text in advanced.

Cheerio!

D-Lab
03-22-2012, 05:13 PM
Hi,

If what you need is to mask the leafs, I may suggest you to use clip maps instead (Object Properties/Render tab), better render times cause it's a sort of texture boolean.

Tchao

Sensei
03-22-2012, 08:32 PM
Show screen-shot/render.
But it sounds like you didn't enable double sides on leafs. So if leaf is seen from back, it's not visible at all. But when camera moves to its front side, it's automagically appearing. Right?

JonW
03-22-2012, 11:23 PM
Are you doing the Alpha in Layout?


I have already forgotten who, but very recently someone gave a really good idea to keep a copy of the Alpha with the object in the transparency channel & keep transparency at 100% so you will always have a copy of the image with the object!

Attached normal Layout procedure:

HolyMonkey-
03-24-2012, 03:21 AM
You guys rock! Ill post a result as soon as I get up and running here, currently at my homestation.

I will try out all your advice! but right of the bat, It seems clip mask will fix it, aswell as the double sided.. I didnt think of that.

I also have a question.

Is it possible to animate a moving object thats already present but make it seem as moving by adding a black and white gradient to a clip mask, and map it to a null?

If so , how do you cope if it has to turn more than 180 degrees? Just got to know the clip mask function. It seems very powerful! =)

SteveH
03-24-2012, 09:02 AM
Jon,
I do this with my leaves too as far as setting up the transparency which I copy and paste into the clip map. Believe it or not - if you don't then delete the transparency map (not uncheck it - but actually remove it) it will still increase render time (compared to only clip map). Try it and see. I dont' knwo why unchecking doesn't give you the same render time as removing - but removing it does decrease the render time. Mna...hopefully that made sense...sorry if it didn't.:D

Sensei
03-24-2012, 09:48 AM
I am not a fan of using just clip maps to leafs. They can be 0 or 1, any other values are considered as 1. Which means there will be no anti-aliasing on leaf edges, where they're the most important for realistic looking. Also leafs are partially transparent in reality.

HolyMonkey-
03-24-2012, 01:54 PM
Sensei you suggest leaving leafs in transparrancy slot for more controll then?

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102916&stc=1&d=1332618771

Question 1# Any idea how to brighter the overall leafs? Upping the bounce didnt help much and adding a higher intensity just makes it over exposed. They are extremely dark right now. Double sided turned on.

Question 2# This is completely off topic. GI = Radiosity turned on ?

Is there any separate tab you have to click to activate GI? (Global illumination) or is it on by default?

Sensei
03-24-2012, 02:12 PM
Press ctrl-f9 to run VPR, then start tweaking.. :)

Start from- using color space. It will make everything brighter immediately.

Try Translucency, maybe not 100% but some.
Some Transparency, ray flying through couple leafs will add together..

Use Dome/area lights - they are giving much nicer renders.

I remember thread couple months ago, guy gave his tree here, and after people tweaked it, it was awesome ;)

Try mine HeadLight plugin from http://www.trueart.pl
Reduce light intensity to some 15-20%, see result.

HolyMonkey-
03-24-2012, 03:11 PM
Alright, I will upload the tree file in 11 hours when filemail.com allows me to upload again. The file was too big for native upload in newtek forum. 45mb Unless there are any other good upload sites.

Here is my latest tweak,
http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102918&stc=1&d=1332623399 rendertime was 30 minutes... frustrating.... aigo.. haha anyway! Scene will be up tomorow as soon as I can upload so you guys can have a go!

but what do you mean by using color space? Where how when D:

translucensy didnt make any difference hmm...

Sensei
03-24-2012, 03:20 PM
Upload here, as attachment, as everybody..

HolyMonkey-
03-24-2012, 03:24 PM
Upload here, as attachment, as everybody..

it only allows 25mb space. My file was 45mb :P

Sensei
03-24-2012, 03:32 PM
LWO in one message, textures in second.

HolyMonkey-
03-24-2012, 03:41 PM
LWO in one message, textures in second.

I tried, but it was still too big. The LWO alone is 33mb compressed. I will upload it as soon as possible! =) Thank you for helping me out so far.

Sensei
03-24-2012, 03:46 PM
If compressed LWO is taking 33 mb, I doubt it will load on mine system at all..

HolyMonkey-
03-25-2012, 01:12 AM
https://www.filemail.com/no/dl.aspx?id=DWXNAEFEGYZUUAL

There is a useless rar file in there, in the OBJ folder. I just forgot to delete it, aswell as the culprit for high render times was the shadow.

Without shadow 4 minutes, with shadow 24 minutes. I also tried with a dome light and the result were far better! Thanks Sensei!

Look forward to your results!

JonW
03-25-2012, 06:11 PM
Set Global illumination RPE 26, AT 70, MinPS 4, MaxPS 100, obviously this is for everything in the scene, including trees etc.

For your important objects, like buildings etc or even the ground to some extent, go to Object Properties/ Global illumination/ & Un-tick use global & put in better quality figures eg: PRE 100 to 200, AT 10 to 20, MinPS 1, MaxPS 30


If you have grass on the ground use the global setting.


PS. Pixel Aspect is not set to 1.0, you may have a reason for this!

Sensei
03-26-2012, 04:30 AM
http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102961&stc=1&d=1332757791

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 08:21 AM
Nice tree Sensei. :thumbsup:

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102964&stc=1&d=1332771523

Sensei
03-26-2012, 08:26 AM
I just noticed that everything is f* up..
Tried to use area light, and not worked correctly. So loaded tree in Modeler and it turned out that it has 425 meters height!
It needs to be scaled down to 5% of original or so. Then start setting up scene from scratch..

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 08:31 AM
Strange.....

I did notice that the camera was about 1 km away. :D

Sensei
03-26-2012, 08:38 AM
HolyMonkey, see this thread how nicely they tweaked tree
http://forums.newtek.com/showthread.php?t=123357

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 08:51 AM
Good call on the size. What a difference! :thumbsup:

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102968&stc=1&d=1332773475

Sensei
03-26-2012, 09:00 AM
When light is far far away, all light samples directions are almost parallel. And whole point of multiple samples per spot is to have them in different directions, so when dot products from normal vectors are blended together, there is nice shading. Blending multiple dot products with the same light sample direction is like having distant light with just one sample.

You still have too far light source. Shadow on grass is quite sharp.

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 09:06 AM
Of course your right, The lights 10m away on the X and Z, but 750m up in the air!

Doh.

Sensei
03-26-2012, 09:09 AM
You can't change this light position directly in item settings. It's Sunspot modifier. Open Motion Options and activate Sunspot modifier and set Distance.

Scazzino
03-26-2012, 10:16 AM
Are you doing the Alpha in Layout?


I have already forgotten who, but very recently someone gave a really good idea to keep a copy of the Alpha with the object in the transparency channel & keep transparency at 100% so you will always have a copy of the image with the object!

Attached normal Layout procedure:

Hi Jon,

Yes that was me. I first set it all up in the transparency channel with the proper scaling, position etc. That way if I'm only using a few of the items in a scene I can just use the transparency map as is. But if I need lots of them in the scene then I'll copy/paste the transparency map to the object's clip map and turn it off in the transparency channel. This also serves as a backup to store the clip map with the object incase it's loaded as an object only rather than from a scene that had the clip map applied. Since clip maps are stored in the scene file rather than the object file it's easy to lose them otherwise.

:beerchug:

Sensei
03-26-2012, 11:03 AM
http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102970&stc=1&d=1332781221

HolyMonkey-
03-26-2012, 12:25 PM
Could you send me your scene sensei? I wanna have a lookie and compare to my old scene. I didnt notice light distance had that much to say. I always have seriouse problem with scaling of my scenes.

Is there any thumb of rule? Like create a box that is 10x10 meter high, and build your scene around that box within LW? :P

I use maya for modelling and lightwave for rendering.

Great renders sensei!

Sensei
03-26-2012, 12:38 PM
LW v11.0.1 color space sRGB (quick preset)
http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102975&stc=1&d=1332787006

HolyMonkey-
03-26-2012, 12:40 PM
LW v11.0.1 color space sRGB (quick preset)
http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102975&stc=1&d=1332787006

I dont have LW 11. But how do you see the size parameters? I thought LW made it relative based on the size of your objects?

Sensei
03-26-2012, 12:50 PM
I always have seriouse problem with scaling of my scenes.

Is there any thumb of rule? Like create a box that is 10x10 meter high, and build your scene around that box within LW? :P

I am usually using natural sizes. Unless they're ridiculous like distance from earth to sun etc.

In this case, I just rescaled to natural height of tree, 425 * 2% = 8.5 meters.



I use maya for modelling and lightwave for rendering.

LOL! :D

Did you saw mine TrueArt's Modeling Pack http://modelingpack.trueart.eu
Especially interactive tools EasyMesh, EasySplit, SwiftEdgeLoop?

http://www.trueart.eu/Products/Plug-Ins/EasyMesh/Graphics/Movies/EasyMesh_7.gif
http://www.trueart.eu/Products/Plug-Ins/EasyMesh/Graphics/Movies/EasyMesh_8.gif



Great renders sensei!

I am not happy with them, yet ;)

I am not 3d graphics artist, but programmer.

HolyMonkey-
03-26-2012, 12:57 PM
I am usually using natural sizes. Unless they're ridiculous like distance from earth to sun etc.

In this case, I just rescaled to natural height of tree, 425 * 2% = 8.5 meters.



LOL! :D

Did you saw mine TrueArt's Modeling Pack http://modelingpack.trueart.eu
Especially interactive tools EasyMesh, EasySplit, SwiftEdgeLoop?

http://www.trueart.eu/Products/Plug-Ins/EasyMesh/Graphics/Movies/EasyMesh_7.gif
http://www.trueart.eu/Products/Plug-Ins/EasyMesh/Graphics/Movies/EasyMesh_8.gif



I am not happy with them, yet ;)

I am not 3d graphics artist, but programmer.

Wow!! Really handy tool!!!! And uhh how did you figure out the height of the tree was 400 meters?

Sensei
03-26-2012, 01:01 PM
And uhh how did you figure out the height of the tree was 400 meters?

Just loaded object in Modeler. On left there is position of mouse cursor in object coordinate space.

HolyMonkey-
03-26-2012, 01:09 PM
Just loaded object in Modeler. On left there is position of mouse cursor in object coordinate space.

How far away would you usually say the light should be when it comes to h aving accurate results? 10m, 100m? 200m?

Sensei
03-26-2012, 01:28 PM
That depends on light type. Distance in f.e. distant light or point light have completely no meaning. As long as you're not using Intensity Falloff.

Light sending multiple light samples to scene are affected by distance. If light is too far from object, all sample directions are parallel, so whole using of light doesn't make sense (because faster will be distant/point light type, and result-render the same).

HolyMonkey-
03-26-2012, 01:38 PM
That depends on light type. Distance in f.e. distant light or point light have completely no meaning. As long as you're not using Intensity Falloff.

Light sending multiple light samples to scene are affected by distance. If light is too far from object, all sample directions are parallel, so whole using of light doesn't make sense (because faster will be distant/point light type, and result-render the same).

Area and Dome light

Sensei
03-26-2012, 01:40 PM
Area, Dome, Linear, IES are all sending multiple light samples.

HolyMonkey-
03-26-2012, 01:47 PM
Area, Dome, Linear, IES are all sending multiple light samples.

kkk yeah!! Just I have no idea what the proper distance would be :P If you have a correct scale of a house that would be 6-8 meters tall, placing the light 20 meters into the sky would produce most realistic results or placing it like 1km away would be a good distance? I tried many distances, and I only noticed a slight change in the sharpness of shadow, and the overall image looked pretty similar, but then again to hit realisme its the small things that matters i guess.

Sensei
03-26-2012, 01:51 PM
You should get LW v10.1 at least. It has VPR. You can just tweak settings and see result immediately..
In dome light you can adjust angle. 90 degree is the most soft. Try 45, 22.5 etc.
Area and linear are reacting to light item size change.
Learn on simple scenes that render in 1-2 seconds.

Sensei
03-26-2012, 02:08 PM
LW v11 instanced trees
http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102978&stc=1&d=1332792491

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 02:27 PM
Hey snap!

Thanks for the pointers. Used the leaf node in the other thread.

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102979&stc=1&d=1332793616

Sensei
03-26-2012, 02:30 PM
You need instanced grass with the same node setup as leafs and will be great.

But you're not using color space, AFAICS. That's why it's darker than mine.

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 02:33 PM
I am, I just changed the hue of the leaves to match with the background trees and grass.

Thanks again.

HolyMonkey-
03-26-2012, 04:36 PM
I am, I just changed the hue of the leaves to match with the background trees and grass.

Thanks again.

I looked at the other thread, and I didnt get it. Swampy could you make a quick video again setting up the leaf node like you did before?

Sincerely, node noob. kkk ^^

Really awesome work!

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 04:46 PM
It's this one... http://forums.newtek.com/showpost.php?p=1200823&postcount=15

No need for a tut, it's a very simple set up. :thumbsup:

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102983&stc=1&d=1332802287

Sensei
03-26-2012, 04:46 PM
It is using 3rd party nodes. I don't know whether they are working with LW v9.6..

XswampyX
03-26-2012, 04:54 PM
Yep.

There's a version for 9.0 9.5 9.6 10.0 & 11!

HolyMonkey-
03-27-2012, 03:07 AM
Yep.

There's a version for 9.0 9.5 9.6 10.0 & 11!

Ahh Thanks! Do you understand why the nodes do what they do in that setup?

Color Layer is obviously color, but what is the pupose of lambet and colo tool? Cant you just plug that and the back lit directly into the Add scaled(which I guess mixes textues?)"?

Trying to understand the node editor instead of actually just copying someone, Ive seen some of the node combinations you guys make. Its craaaaazy kkk

HolyMonkey-
03-27-2012, 01:31 PM
Made a new render, it improved a bit from the previouse one, but .... INSANE render time!!! I dont get it, the only tweak I can do is turn off shadow and then it looks alot worse but renders only in 4 minutes, now it took like 30 minutes....

Do you remember your render times swampy?

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102996&stc=1&d=1332878529

PS I followed the setup on the picture, and yet mine still looks similar to my old one only with more depth, yet yours look alot more alive.

I added the texture through the Color Layer, and setup the lambert, color tool and back lit with pretty much basic settings.

XswampyX
03-27-2012, 05:14 PM
No I don't I'm afraid HolyMonkey. Anyway I had 20000 instances of trees and grass so I don't think they would help. :)

So I re-rendered it. Works out at about 21 mins for 1280x1024.
I went with clip maps for the leaves, as using transparency was too slow.

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103000&stc=1&d=1332889934

JonW
03-27-2012, 05:52 PM
Made a new render, it improved a bit from the previouse one, but .... INSANE render time!!! I dont get it, the only tweak I can do is turn off shadow and then it looks alot worse but renders only in 4 minutes, now it took like 30 minutes....

Did you cut back your Global illumination settings?

I think you had RPE 100. RPE 26 kept the ground darker than 25, here was the best step.

AT 45, I don't know if it's still the same but for tree etc 46 & above reduces render time by doing a lot less calculations. (someone maybe able to give a more technical answer)

Min Pixel Spacing, do not use 1 on growies.


It is best to set Global settings lower & increase settings for key items like buildings.

HolyMonkey-
03-28-2012, 02:09 AM
Did you cut back your Global illumination settings?

I think you had RPE 100. RPE 26 kept the ground darker than 25, here was the best step.

AT 45, I don't know if it's still the same but for tree etc 46 & above reduces render time by doing a lot less calculations. (someone maybe able to give a more technical answer)

Min Pixel Spacing, do not use 1 on growies.


It is best to set Global settings lower & increase settings for key items like buildings.

hmm.. You mean check the global illumination tab for the tree object and set it lower? I will give it a shot! , yet I still dont understand why Swampies tree is so much more alive, We pretty much have the exact same texture setup, minus some minor tweaks it seems.. Unless he did some sneaky pro stuff 8)

You're suggestion I just use

RAys Per evaluation at just 25 and AT(Angular Tolerance) at 45 which is standard I think?

I will give it a shot =)

Just have to wait a few hours before I can give it a go... thanks though!

XswampyX
03-28-2012, 04:44 AM
Well I have tweaked it a little bit. :hey:

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103005&stc=1&d=1332931153

The two colours are front/back light.
Specular map. This was the reflection map, but that was too slow.
Normal map. Auto generated in gimp. As the leaves are as flat as pancakes.

The Transparency map is not being used as I have made a new clip map for that, so it's just used to control the specular to only the leaf surface.

Cheers!

HolyMonkey-
03-28-2012, 11:54 AM
Well I have tweaked it a little bit. :hey:

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103005&stc=1&d=1332931153

The two colours are front/back light.
Specular map. This was the reflection map, but that was too slow.
Normal map. Auto generated in gimp. As the leaves are as flat as pancakes.

The Transparency map is not being used as I have made a new clip map for that, so it's just used to control the specular to only the leaf surface.

Cheers!

I was freaking spot on when I said "something pro" Thanks for sharing!


PS, may I ask which settings you use to render? RVP AT and MIN MAX ?

XswampyX
03-28-2012, 03:58 PM
Heh heh.....

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103022&stc=1&d=1332971809

It's pretty paired back, but it's just for the tree.

HolyMonkey-
03-28-2012, 11:37 PM
kkk "heh heh"

Ive never quite understood adaptive sampling,

I checked out excepts tutorial and he gave numbers such as

0,1 and then you can tweak the sharpness of that of putting the threshold on a value between

0.05 (sharp

0.01 (blurry

I see your setup is quite different, is there any logic behind the adaptive sampling?

madno
03-29-2012, 06:41 AM
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8A1C0DB658775A63&feature=plcp

I think in the video about rendering, the adaptive sampling is mentioned.

XswampyX
03-29-2012, 11:08 AM
I wouldn't use a tree object to try and understand the intricacies of LW AS. It's just got too many edges. As far as I understand it the lower the number, the closer the sample to neighbouring pixels has to be. If it's not reached then you sample again, up to max samples. If it's never reached then you sample up to max samples.

The leaves on the trees just create loads of edges, they can't ever give a low enough AS value to ever be discounted. So you sample all your edges for max samples. ie all of the tree.

If you think about it, all of your leaves are just sprites. 2d polys. If you set you max samples high enough all you would show were that your leaves were sprites.

This tree has the same surface on the leaves, the light one is the sprite leaves and the darker one is using 3d modelled instanced leaves. You just don't have enough information in the sprites to get a perfect image.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr16/xXswampyXx/SingleTree.gif

Hope this helps. :D

HolyMonkey-
03-29-2012, 11:28 AM
I wouldn't use a tree object to try and understand the intricacies of LW AS. It's just got too many edges. As far as I understand it the lower the number, the closer the sample to neighbouring pixels has to be. If it's not reached then you sample again, up to max samples. If it's never reached then you sample up to max samples.

The leaves on the trees just create loads of edges, they can't ever give a low enough AS value to ever be discounted. So you sample all your edges for max samples. ie all of the tree.

If you think about it, all of your leaves are just sprites. 2d polys. If you set you max samples high enough all you would show were that your leaves were sprites.

This tree has the same surface on the leaves, the light one is the sprite leaves and the darker one is using 3d modelled instanced leaves. You just don't have enough information in the sprites to get a perfect image.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr16/xXswampyXx/SingleTree.gif

Hope this helps. :D

Im stuck on LW 10,1 so I dont have the max min sample option yet, but I think I get what your saying hmm

HolyMonkey-
04-01-2012, 05:55 AM
Vegies you drive me crazy!!! Argh! Any advice in regards to the entire image GREATLY appreciated!!!

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103122&stc=1&d=1333281271

JonW
04-01-2012, 07:37 AM
Some trees in the background.

Softer shadows. Equivalent to an Area light 10m at 1km.

The hedge is too regular, rotate, slightly different size, slightly different colours.

Darken the road a touch. & put a 5 to 10 metre turbulence texture in the diffuse channel for slight irregularities (10% etc).

A few random leafs on the ground in the foreground.

Timber panel too bright & a bit plastic looking.

Something reflected in the glass.

Terrance surface toned down & some texture.

Texture on the grey side wall.

Path tiles, a dog bone or more typical pattern. Not square.

Something has gone wrong with the hedge shadows.

A venetian blind or 2 inside the window to make it look busy.

2 pot plants on the terrace.

Front door handle.

No grass under the hedge. Some mulch.

Roof tiles a bit too large.

Lighten the back corner of the garage,


Start with the big things & it will come together quickly. It's a good start!

Ryste3d
04-01-2012, 07:50 AM
Find a real world photo of a house and compare it to your work. It will absolutly give you tons of ideas.

But this is a good start. Maybe change your camera position to a normal person eye level. That will make it much easier to fill in the background (maybey an image) without having to create a hole city.

In front of the garden maka a road with road lines and a sidewalk maybe a buss sign and a road lamp and lamps on the house and people and more...



Good luck with this...

HolyMonkey-
04-01-2012, 08:44 AM
Thanks alot, gave me alot of ideas! =)

I was planning on doing some parts in post like trees in the back and such, but thank you for the tips Ill start patching that one together. Hopefully have an update by the end of the day.

Sidewalks and other details coming up! By the way, a few guys saw this before. Everyone complained the ugly orange color on the house. Its really that bad? o.O hehe

Also, bright surfaces always become over exposed on my images, and I get alot of noise in sharp detail like rock bumps. How do you overcome this?

Look at my tiles for example. It just looks like a bunch of tiny dots, instead of actual cracks.

Ryste3d
04-01-2012, 08:58 AM
just remember reflection in the windows

Make a plane (or spear or cylinder) apply an image with ground and sky. turn of cast shadow, recive shadow and unseen by camera. that wil give you reflections (maybe you have to turn up luminosity a bit (10 -20). You should not use reflection blurring on the glass.

The texture wall between the middle windows and door should be vertical. And yes change color.

HolyMonkey-
04-01-2012, 09:01 AM
just remember reflection in the windows

Make a plane (or spear or cylinder) apply an image with ground and sky. turn of cast shadow, recive shadow and unseen by camera. that wil give you reflections (maybe you have to turn up luminosity a bit (10 -20). You should not use reflection blurring on the glass.

Oh man genius! Thanks! =D

HolyMonkey-
04-01-2012, 01:02 PM
Update - Ive taken into account most of the things you said and tried to tweak accordingly, I still miss a few that I need to fix.

If you look at the terrace wood, upclose it looks good but as soon as I zoom out all details turn into grain. Ive seen you guys post pictures on here that has clean detail on things that are fairly far away but has some sharp detail.

How do you overcome the grainyness? I have not upped the rays yet for final render, Im guessing that would fix alot, but can it be because of my camera settings? Currently adaptive sampling is set to 0,1 and 0,05.

Cheerio! Critique most welcome as always!

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103126&stc=1&d=1333306708

JonW
04-01-2012, 02:55 PM
For grain & detail it's sometimes better to render twice the size (4 x the area) but at 1/4 the AA settings. Then half the size in Photoshop. This will also fix up the AA on high contrast edges which aren't level or vertical.

Also you can shrink the image about a 1/3 more in PS & scale back. You thrown away a bit of data but it's a bit like some more filtering, but you are adding some softness to the image. Edges are not so sharp.

Road texture is a bit overdone for the image as a whole. The tone of the path needs to be warmed up a little & the gutter.

The carport frame, put some joins in the timber. This will happen with a small bevel on the edges of each timer post & beam.

Small bevel the corners of the other main things.

The path tiles have say 3 slight variations in brightness. say 20 - 40 slightly darker tiles & another 10 - 20 a touch darker again.

White/grey wall put a very minimal % (maybe 2%) turbulence 5 metre in the diffuse channel to break it up a bit. Maybe an expansion joint halfway up the wall, first floor level.

The gutter blocks look great, add the same irregularities to the driveway gutter blocks.

Lower the grass a bit & add a few irregular blades. & darker soil under the grass. a few blades between 2 or 3 tiles near the grass edge.

The grey band (skirting) needs a bit of texture.

A couple of posts at the front edge of the bin fence. The horizontals are held up with sky hooks.

Letter box, house number, maybe light fixture on wall.

Area lights say 10% with fall off 3m in front of entrance, & garage about 10m (exclude car)

What Ryste3d said, get a real image for reference.

Personal preference, but I would go for off white for the umbrella & cushions.

The timber wall in the Glossiness channel put a Gradient, incidence angle value, a second key with lower value at 90 to fine tune. Specularity worth a go as well.

A neighbouring tree casting a shadow on the left (even if there isn't one!). Onto corner of terrance & a small bit of the building.

Light shadows Shadow Colour use a slightly off black with a hint of blue/purple.

Do the same for a background image as the reflections. You can have this not see by camera for quicker rendering. Then do it in post. But while setting up the scene it will help you visualise the overall image.

Ryste3d
04-02-2012, 12:29 AM
Another important thing is that the roof should extend about 40 centimeters on each side of the house (and make sure gutters and downpipes are installed like you did on the garage) (takrenne og nedlÝpsrÝr)

Yo should also stretch the house texture (X and Z) to remove the pattern and the noise.

HolyMonkey-
04-02-2012, 02:13 PM
Thank you all for the tips, here is an update.

The whole shrinking and lower AA explination you made I have to say I dont understand what you mean, you mean render out the image seperately and patch it together in photoshop later?


"The grey band (skirting) needs a bit of texture." ??

I didnt have much time today been busy most of the day but I did some fixes, let me know what you think. Vegies will come as soon as im done with the entire image as much as I can.

PS It took me awhile to invent the sky hooks! I plan on releasing them on the market soon.

I also notice my image gets alot sharper colors AFTER i save it, I thought PNG was lossless??

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103143&stc=1&d=1333397510

Sensei
04-02-2012, 02:29 PM
Change pavement to look like this
http://krzeszowiceone.pl/files/chodnik1.jpg

Generally enter names of things that you're using in google, and search for photos, and use them as reference for modeling, texturing and lighting..

HolyMonkey-
04-06-2012, 11:36 AM
Finally had some time to get back to this scene. Ive done a few updates now im left with two questions.

The weird shading in the upper left corner in the window is caused by the Sunsky Plugin as it only disappears if I turn it off, and I have no idea how to fix it with leaving the sunsky shader off.

Why does my tree cast shadow on the grass but not my bushes? Grass is made using the Pablo method with 50 planes ontop of each other and adding a fractal thingy mebober.

Let me know what you think, cheerio!

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103266&stc=1&d=1333733635

JonW
04-06-2012, 04:59 PM
Window: Is there a gap between the top of the wall & the roof tiles? Put a ceiling inside.

As far as I can tell it's the Bushes not casting shadows? If you have gone through all the cast & receive & exclude settings & it seems nothing is working. Another option is find another object that works, clone that, & then replace it with the object you are trying to get to work.

The 2 area lights in the entrance & garage are a bit bright, a bit under done would be better, you may need an additional one for the car.

The gap between the gutter & tiles is very distracting, it needs filling in, moving, or something done to it.

The Fascia board on the white wall. if you don't want to UV map it, just rotate a couple of copies of the wood texture images in Photoshop, one for 25˚ & -25˚ (whatever angle it is) piece of timber.

Angle the last gutter stone next to the driveway, it's corner is tire punching stuff & looks distracting.

But it's looking a lot better with more thing happening in the scene.

XswampyX
04-06-2012, 05:04 PM
That 'gap' is a single sided poly isn't it? Same with the shadows....

HolyMonkey-
04-07-2012, 01:42 AM
Thanks for the reply,

The roof mishap was fixed, the error was a 1 sided plane thanks

The gutter I will fix later , just add some white filling inbetween.

The The Fascia board... I think this wall must of seduced me somehow. I dont see much issue with it. Every single plank is UV mapped, you mean rotate the UV to create some variation in the texture?

I am not trying to be stubborn in anyway, dont get me wrong. Just try to point out whats wrong with it, cuz I cant see it! damnit!!! hehe.

My scene was invaded by cube people, and they left two on the grass. It seems as if the base is below the top plane of the grass it wont give off any shadow.

The grass is many many planes stacked ontop of each other with minimal space in between, then added a clip map to it, with some procedurals vegie and fractal I think.

I could always lower the grass even more, but I want it to have some definition, any way around this?

All leafs are double sided

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103282&stc=1&d=1333784287

JonW
04-07-2012, 01:57 AM
The The Fascia board... I think this wall must of seduced me somehow. I dont see much issue with it. Every single plank is UV mapped, you mean rotate the UV to create some variation in the texture?

Just the 2 pieces at the edge of the roof tiles. The timber grain isn't running parallel to the 2 pieces of timber. You only need to do the side face.

The tree seems to casts a shadow ok. You actually want some mulch under the hedge as the grass will not grow anyway, so you could remove a section of grass.

The shadows under the hedge on the footpath seem a touch black.

HolyMonkey-
04-07-2012, 04:40 AM
Just the 2 pieces at the edge of the roof tiles. The timber grain isn't running parallel to the 2 pieces of timber. You only need to do the side face.

The tree seems to casts a shadow ok. You actually want some mulch under the hedge as the grass will not grow anyway, so you could remove a section of grass.

The shadows under the hedge on the footpath seem a touch black.

Could you snatch my photo and do some scrabble ontop and repost an image? I cant seem to get exactly what you mean.

Mulch?

Cheerio! PS, if you could... check out my other thread.. yes im hijacking my own thread hehe.

http://forums.newtek.com/showthread.php?t=127146

JonW
04-07-2012, 05:11 AM
Attached: Fascia timber grain is horizontal in the image. Mulch is under the growies.

XswampyX
04-07-2012, 10:38 AM
Do you have the surface of your ClipGrass set to double sided?

Double vs Single

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr16/xXswampyXx/GrassDSvsSS.jpg

HolyMonkey-
04-07-2012, 12:43 PM
Do you have the surface of your ClipGrass set to double sided?

Double vs Single

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr16/xXswampyXx/GrassDSvsSS.jpg

I dunno, it looks better and worse in a sence, I have to add the mulch and see how that turns out. What do you think?

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103295&stc=1&d=1333824185

XswampyX
04-07-2012, 05:16 PM
I agree. But you can always change your Texture map the get a lighter green.

If I was nit picking....

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103300&stc=1&d=1333840164

Your doors should be 2m high. It's a standard size.

All your windows will be the same height. It cost a lot more for custom windows.

You need to leave at least 1.8m under the tree to enable the grass to be mowed. A taller tree will give you some interesting shadows on the building.

If you either make your bushes at the front higher or move them towards the grass you won't get that clean 3 pixel wide concrete texture sat there.

The planks in the middle are a different size to the ones at either end. I wouldn't expect any builder to cut planks different sizes.

Just nit picking really. I think it's a great start. :thumbsup:

HolyMonkey-
04-13-2012, 01:02 PM
I apologize for the uber late reply, I just have too much to do right now.

Swampy, I am so greatful for your nitpicking! I will be sure to edit most of it in, I was just eager to get a first version of this out so I moved it to post. Ill get back to the house at some point later. =)

Have a look, as always appreciate all criticism!

PS, is the LW render inferior to f.ex max and cinema4D? I am in no way claiming to be some expert and all that, and im 99% sure this is becuase my lack of skill!! but!! hear me out

- This is a bit irrelevant, awhile ago I made a liferaft scene, and when comparing very similar scene setups(just some area lights) to other programs

The solution just became alot cleaner in other programs, my renders in LW tend to get very grainy, as you can see on the porch. It has a wood texture, and it just looks like a bunch of grain. If I created a similar shader in Cinema4D it would be alot smoother.

Its kind of like if you compare native renders to kray renders you just see theres a difference in realism.

Cheerio!

http://forums.newtek.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103480&stc=1&d=1334343651