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View Full Version : New to UV mapping - LW -> 3d-coat -> unwrapping ?



madno
07-19-2011, 03:44 PM
Sorry to ask about UV and 3d-Coat, but there was a thread of another forum member where some replies mentioned that software. So I thought I might can get help here.

It is the first time I try to make a UV map. So it took me some days to understand the idea of it. But I thought, make one map for your model, otherwise you will never learn it (by the way, modeling I am also only beginning to understand).

My problem is that I can't get the walls of my "Room" unwraped as I want them. I thought I make seam loops at the top and bottom of the room, make one vertical seam from the top to the bottom at one edge of the room and then I can unfold it like I would do with a mailing carton (top and bottom are individual parts and the "wall" gets one large stripe of paper). But somehow the island I make with 3d-Coat never come out as I want them.
Its difficult to explan it so I attached some screeshots. Hopefully they show what my problem is.

Any help is appreciated.

madno
07-19-2011, 04:03 PM
I found out, that I can edit the island manually, but it takes a lot of time and it is difficult to get accurate results.

probiner
07-19-2011, 05:27 PM
Why not posting in 3D coat forum? =P

Similar object made with PLG. You can either use PLG to mark the seams or cut and paste the geometry you want to separate. The way you mark the seams makes a lot of difference on either apps.

Cheers

Cloak&Dagger
07-20-2011, 02:12 AM
Have you got all quads in the object?

3DC can be a pain with higher point polys.

Try using edge loop selection to select a loop and if 3DC doesnt select a loop then there is something it doesnt like about the obj.

Not that i profess to being anything other than a rookie with 3DC but i could take a look at the model. I do a lot of my unwrapping in 3DC.

Fsoto
07-20-2011, 12:01 PM
Madno, have you tried the tutorials on the the 3dcoat site? One by Javis Jones on editing/adjusting is fantastic: http://vimeo.com/7860006

madno
07-20-2011, 02:01 PM
Yes I watched alot of videos (even bought one from Libety3d). But how to make a seam, use the brushes, etc. is explained so well in the free videos of the 3d-Coat site, that I feel buying the video did not give me additional information.
The model is all quad (I attached it as an OBJ with no uv - sorry no LWO because its made in 10.1 and I don't want to disturb any 10.0 installation).
I also attached the 3D-Coat file showing how I made the seams.
Honestly speaking, this uv stuff is all new to me (like modeling, textures and so on).
I thought, unwrapping those walls should be easy (I see in my head how the map should be), but it seems to be more complicated using the software I have.
Anyway maybe there is a simple solution, I just don't know.

Intuition
07-20-2011, 04:06 PM
Yeah, unwrapping for an organic mesh is very different then for hard geometry. With organic meshes you will want some symmetry for left and right of the creature but it will be very forgiving in most cases.

With houses, cars, anything with shared symmetry seams, you will have to plan out the main panels really well. If not you will have different scale resolutions and angles for the texture maps.

For your house I can see that a few walls will need to stay horizontal/vertical or you will get those angled textures. Which is looking good in the last render you did. :)

Each app has its own ways of getting UV maps out. A UV projection works well in your case. Each side needing its own projection. You can also go beyond UV 0-1 in these cases. Especially if you are using a different surface texture on each part as you are. Give each panel a full UV square if you can. Also, LW allows you to save out different UV map setups and select them in a list. Another reason to allow each panel to have its own full UV square.

I usually always set up UVs by hand except in cases were unwrapping needs to remove pixel distortion. Which is primarily on organic meshes anyways, like for areas in fingers, ears, horns, etc. Headus UV layout is great for this. I don't use it in cases of hard surfaces though, the manual placement is best, as you have done.